BestScenicRoutes.com

Posts Tagged ‘San Juan Islands’

The glorious scenery of Western Washington is shrouded in a blanket of temperate marine clouds for several months per year. Many of us riders keep our wheels turning throughout the year, despite it feeling like you’re riding through the vegetable section at the grocery store — the constant mist keeps us fresh.

When the sun begins to burn through our winter blanket, riders are very eager to hit the road. The lingering snow in the Cascade mountains and foothills pushes adventures to the lower elevations. For this reason, one of my favorite spring-time rides is out on the island, Whidbey Island.

Whidbey Island sits just off the mainland in the waters of the Puget Sound. It basically runs longitudinally, with the main roads going North-South. The Seattle-metro area sprawls to the Mukilteo-Clinton ferry that serves Whidbey Island. For our most recent Whidbey Island road trip, we decided to start to the north and ride south.

Rainbow Bridge in La Conner crosses the Swinomish Channel.

Our ride actually starts near the Snohomish and Skagit county line. There are a handful of non-freeway routes that will get you up to the starting point in Conway and on to Fir Island Road. Fir Island Road slices through lush Skagit Valley farmland dividing it up into sections of land held above water by a vast system of dikes. The fertile land produces many cash crops, such as tulips, iris, potatoes and more. The flowers are particularly popular with tourists during the Skagit Valley Tulip festival held in April every year.

Fir Island turns into Best Road as it climbs up a small hill. As it drops down again, turn onto Chilberg Road toward the historic town of La Conner. The town has many food and retail options. We take the very first left turn onto Maple Avenue  to circumvent the busy business core. Rainbow Bridge soon arches gracefully over the Swinomish Channel that once carried steamboats north from Seattle and on to Bellingham. On the other side of the bridge we ride through the Swinomish Reservation and almost immediately turn left onto Snee Oosh Road. Now firmly on Fidalgo Island, the road provides beautiful views over the waters of Simlik Bay before connecting with Reservation Road to continue north where we follow Washington State Route 20.

We aren’t ready to turn toward Whidbey Island just yet so we ride past the intersection for SR20 and Deception Pass Road. Instead, we head to the round-a-bout in Anacortes and follow it all the way around to Commercial Avenue.

Mount Erie is the highest point on Fidalgo Island. It offers great views to the east, west and south.

We wind through the neighborhood to H Avenue and Heart Lake Road. This road takes us through the incredible park known as the Anacortes Community Forest Lands.

According to a Wikipedia article, the area was once a city revenue source from logging, the local community banned together in the 1990’s to stop logging operations and create multi-purpose trails for hiking, horse and motorized use. Within the 1,500-acre ACFL park is Mt Erie. At 1,273-feet, Mt. Erie is the highest point on Fidalgo Island. Riding up the paved and twisting road to the top opens an incredible view of the San Juan Islands, Cascade Mountains, Mount Baker and even the Olympic Mountains on particularly clear days. After taking in the views, which includes Whidbey Island to the South, we fire up the Suzuki V-Strom 650 and stroll back down the hill to Heart Lake Road and continue South. At the “Y” intersection, keep the left and Campbell Lake Road will connect with SR20, Deception Pass Road.

Motorcycling past Cranberry Lake in Deception Pass State Park on Whidbey Island, WA.

Originally, explorers thought that Whidbey Island was a peninsula. Explorers make mistakes and the small passage of Deception Pass is aptly named for it’s trickery of the famous Vancouver Expedition. Lucky us motorcyclists, the Deception Pass Bridge carries road-goers 180 feet above the turbulent tidal waters below. We ride slowly along the nearly quarter-mile long bridge expanse to soak in the views as we cross. At the intersection past the bridge is the entrance to Deception Pass State Park. A Washington State Discover Pass is required to enter. The gate keepers insisted that we hang our pass on the bike or risk a $99 ticket. It wasn’t the best welcome to a paying customer. We feel unwelcome at Deception Pass State Park and leave.

Now officially on the island, there is one main route north to south comprised of two roads, SR20 and SR525. These roads are busy. There are many side roads that provide a more scenic experience. We trodded off along the northwest portion of the island before arriving to Oak Harbor. The map below shows the actual route, but I highly suggest putting the map away. You’re on an island. You’re not going to get lost, but attempting to is the beauty of being on Whidbey Island.

We find ourselves on Dike Road by accident. To the west, the buzzing traffic of SR20 was visible. It looked hectic, but was well camouflaged by the views of the water trapped by the dike and surrounding grassy field. My head turns to the east jus as my wife chimes in in over the wireless intercom, “Look there’s a Bald Eagle perched right over there.” Just 100 yards into the tidelands was the large bird feasting on young minnow-sized fish. Nature and wildlife is abundant on the island. All you have to do is let the beaten path sink into the camouflage, slow down and enjoy it.

Bald Eagle as seen from a dike on Whidbey Island. Wildlife is abudant on the island.

My #1 pillion and I take turns calling the preferred direction of travel at each intersection. We run into several dead ends. Some were well forested, while others developed communities. Most dished up scenic views of what makes the island life so enticing.

Eventually our somewhat random calling of directions brings us to downtown Oak Harbor. We walk the main strip, grabbing ice cream at Popsies (http://www.popsies.com) and coffee at Whidbey Island Coffee as we meander in and out of seas of antiques, gifts and Paint Your World — a great little store where you paint your own pottery.

After the caffeine and sugar sink in, we mount the V-Strom and continue south. Without giving away too many mapped constrictions, I suggest you zig to the numerous state parks while you zag to the little towns that dot the island. Just be aware of the state park gate keepers as they aren’t friendly to motorcyclists. The views are worth dealing with their poor service.

Ala Spit offers great views of the Skagit River mud flats and spectacular bird watching from northeast Whidbey Island.

If at any point you need to get home, then SR20 or SR525 will get you on the way. Our next trip to Whidbey Island will likely include a tent. The island can easily be zoomed through and looped with I-5 for road trips out of Seattle. A tent or bed and breakfast would enhance the experience.

A few interesting stops on Whidbey Island include:

• Useless Bay Coffee in Langley
• Meerkerk Gardens just south of Greenbank
• Greenbank Farm, which is a former farm and Chateau Ste. Michelle-owned winery that is now art galleries, café, trails and more.

The town of Clinton is the final stop on Whidbey Island. From here, the ferry crosses over to Mukilteo. As traffic builds the hustle and bustle is hard to escape. The Tin Fish is where I often go for incredible fish tacos while I sit on the patio and let the mainland sink in. It is my personal hyperbaric chamber that helps me safely handle the mainland pressures.

It’s an hour after we planned to be out the door. That’s okay, because we’re heading for the San Juan Islands and it just isn’t island-like to be on time. It’s all about chilling out. Fretting over the little things would hinder a perfect trip.

We made the short trip from Seattle north on I-5 and west on State Route 20 to Anacortes (Google map of route). Before riding through town to the Washington State Ferry terminal we decide to make a pit stop and fill up the gas tank on the motorcycle. I’ve learned to fill up the tank before getting stuck paying “island” prices for fuel. The more than five gallons in our Suzuki V-Strom should be enough.

The ferry terminal is a few miles west of downtown Anacortes. The route is fully signed and easy to navigate. We pull up to the ticket counter and purchase fare for one motorcycle and one passenger for $30.30 and pull to the front of the ferry line. The motorcycle preference on Washington State Ferries is the coolest advantage of riding vs. driving. We’re among the first vehicles on and off the ferry.

After parking on the ferry we march up to the cafeteria and order one hot chocolate for Monica and a coffee for me. Let the relaxing begin. It takes just short of an hour to cross the waters from Anacortes to Orcas.

We found a window seat to enjoy our drinks and the view of the islands as they pass. Riding the ferry is a romantic experience. Inside the cabin is a warm comfy spot to begin unwinding from the daily grind. Stepping outside is a bit cooler (plan to wear a light jacket) but affords your senses to absorb the scenery and experience the fresh air.

Our view as we ferry through the San Juan Islands

The San Juan Archipelago includes two groups of islands split along the U.S./Canada border with the San Juan Islands to the south and the Gulf Islands north of the border. The San Juan Islands include 172 islands. The Washington ferry system brings you to four of the largest islands from the Anacortes terminal including: Lopez, Orcas, Shaw and San Juan islands. All of which are great quick get-a-ways from the Seattle area. We rode our motorcycle, but the trip can be enjoyed by car, bicycle and even by foot using the shuttle and taxi services offered on the San Juan Islands.

All of the islands offer great outdoor activities including sea kayaking, whale watching, hiking, and tours by bus, boat and plane. The Olympic Mountains create a rain shadow over the islands. The temperatures range from an average low of 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter to summertime highs of 70-80 degrees. The climate is great for year-round recreation and camping.

We arrived at and rode straight through the town of Orcas. The island roads twist to and from as we pass small farms, art boutiques, freshwater lakes and saltwater bays. It takes 25 minutes to cross 14 miles of land to reach Moran State Park. We pull up to the ranger office to check on our pre-purchased campsite at Midway Campground.

The online reservation system is nice. It does take some getting used to, but it added a little certainty that we’d have a place to pitch our tent upon arrival at Moran State Park.

Moran State Park has more than 5,200 acres of scenic beauty that is best enjoyed by riding the few twisty roads and hiking the 38 miles of foot trails. The park has an abundance of wildlife, including an active population of deer that requires you to mind the posted speed limit and keep a watchful eye.

Campfire wood loaded up on the rack of the V-Strom

Within 20 minutes of being in camp, the bike was unloaded, the tent was set up and we were ready to gather firewood. We got into camp around 2 p.m. and wanted to look around. Before taking a hike, I thought it would be a good idea to get our firewood ready before being hungry for dinner. I rode the V-Strom up to the ranger station and bought a bundle of wood with seven small logs for $5. After sighing and accepting the cost of firewood I loaded it up on the bike’s luggage rack and delivered it to the fire pit.

View of Cascade Lake in Moran State Park, Orcas Island

Camp is set up and we’re ready to march across the street to the Cascade Lake hiking trail. The trail is an easy 2.7 miles long with only minor elevation gains. Surrounded by Douglas fir and other trees that gracefully hang over the shoreline. The tree-lined lake is simply gorgeous with surrounding hills towering overhead. There is a footbridge on the west side of the lake dividing it from the Rosario Lagoon. This is a great spot to take a leap off the bridge and enjoy the cool waters below. The hike was just what we needed to stretch our legs. Shadows cast from the falling sun continued their clockwise travel pointed further and further to the east. It was time to get back to camp and rest.

We pulled out a deck of cards when we arrived back at camp. Nearly two hours passed by without notice. We were in the moment and fully relaxed. Just as a card was laid down a mink passed through our campsite. I wasn’t fast enough with the camera to get a photo. The missed photo-op trained me to be ready for future animal life. Good thing as a short while later a young white tailed doe walked through camp. She was too busy snacking on the foliage to be concerned with my attempt at photos.

Roasting brats over an open fire

The fire was burning. Brats were on the menu for the night. Apparently, expensive firewood doesn’t equal good-burning wood. It took a good amount of effort to get a good fire burning. We ate caveman style and enjoyed dinner and s’mores for dessert.

After dinner I devised a means to keep the campsite locksmiths, a.k.a. raccoons, out of our food. We kept all of the food in the top case of the motorcycle. At night I strung the case up between two trees. Out of reach and out of mind, the intelligent food thieves would move on to the next campsite. The top case worked great as a camp kitchen. Unlocking it from the bike and simply placing it on the picnic table allowed easy access for cooking.

Mount Constitution lookout tower; currently closed for repairs.

After making a pot of coffee and eating our fire-roasted Spam bagelwiches we were ready to begin day two on Orcas Island and Moran State Park. We rode the motorcycle up to the top of Mount Constitution. At 2,409 feet, this is the highest point in the San Juan Islands. At the summit stands a stone lookout tower with a 360-degree view of the surrounding islands out as far as the Olympic Mountains to the west and the Cascades Mountains to the East. A strategic spot indeed. The exact reason why battles such as the Pig War broke out in this region as the USA claimed its stake. The castle-like tower is currently closed for repairs, but the summit still provides spectacular views. Making the scenic route to Orcas Island is worth it for this view alone.

The beautiful view from the summit of Mount Constitution. This view alone is worth a trip to Orcas Island.

We ride back down the steeply graded road with hairpin turns and corner viewpoints. Towards the bottom we head west to Mountain Lake. Monica and I enjoy a four-mile hike around the lake. This is another easy trail to hike. There are trails from easy to very challenging within the park. We decided to stretch our legs on the easy hikes and enjoy the scenic rides on the motorcycle to the viewpoints along the challenging routes.

The afternoon is spent walking around the bustling tourist town of Eastsound. A must see shop in town is Darvill’s bookstore. I could spend a whole day in this rare print shop. There are many treats to be found here while sampling their fine coffee.

We head back to camp early, as we’re tired from a long day of explorations. After eating hot dogs and s’mores (with Reese’s peanut butter cups this time) we grab our books and read under the lantern in the tent and fall asleep.

Day three is spent checking out the shops that we missed in Eastsound on day two and heading back up Horseshoe Highway to the ferry terminal in Orcas. We arrive at the docks early and check out the shops and touring companies in Orcas. We enjoyed a very tasty ice cream cone from a street stand in Orcas. They served up locally made Lopez Creamery ice cream. It was a little expensive at $5 a cone, but it was very good ice cream. Our ferry is due to leave in a few minutes so we ride the bike to the front of the line of cars waiting to board. Our 15-minute wait for the ferry turns into well over an hour as the ferry is delayed near Anacortes. We meet several other motorcycle riders and chat about our experiences on the island. Everyone was pleased with the experience. One group of riders included grandpa, grandma and grandson who rode up from San Diego, California. G-pa rode a beautiful pearl white BMW K100RS and G-son rode an early ‘70s Triumph Bonneville. That’s a long trip on that old bike, but he’s doing what it was made to do, ride many miles in style. Another gentleman rode a newer Ural with a sidecar. He suggested that we check the make out because we had so much stuff strapped to the bike that we needed the convenience of the side hack. We might have to consider such a machine down the line. For now, the Suzuki V-Strom is tops in my book.

Stop at Bob's Chowder Bar in Anacotes for a great meal on the road

We board the ferry and hitch a ride back to Anacortes. We were planning to eat dinner at home, but the late ferry pushed us to grab a bite in Anacortes. Bob’s Chowder Bar and BBQ Salmon was the perfect place to stop on the main drag through town. The outdoor eating fit perfect with our mood. Indoor eating space is limited, but there if needed. The food was very affordable and pretty damn good. I enjoyed the sublime BBQ beef ribs and Monica had the creamy and delicious clam chowder. I highly recommend Bob’s Chowder Bar in Anacortes.

This is a great trip to add to the middle of the La Conner/Whidbey Island route from my previous article. With a full tummy we take the back roads from Anacortes through La Conner back to Everett. We feel fulfilled after completing our three-day motorcycle camping trip. It was a fantastic ride along more of the best scenic routes in Washington.