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Posts Tagged ‘Dungeness Spit’

The next morning we head back to Hwy 101 via NP2880. This road offers great views down the steep cliffs above the Dungeness River. We dismount in Sequim to find treats and coffee. We find both within a short stroll. The coffee joint could have been found on any Seattle-area street. The treats on the other hand, were quite scrumptious. Bell Street Bakery (173 Bell Street, Sequim, WA or 360-681-6262) has their won grain and flour mill. All of the ingredients are grown locally and milled in-house. Their pastries provided the local flavor that we look for during our trips.

Interesting driftwood on Dungeness Spit

With pleasantly full bellies we ride back to the Dungeness Recreation area via the old Olympic Highway. The Dungeness Spit is a more than five-mile sand spit that juts out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Near the end of the spit is the New Dungeness Lighthouse, circa 1857. The lighthouse has been updated to an automatic light and is now operated by the New Dungeness Lighthouse Organization, which took control from the U.S. Coast Guard.

We enjoy a long stroll down the spit looking over the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It would take a couple hours to make it to the lighthouse. A walk that would be well worth it if we had the time. After taking several photos we continue down Hwy 101 to Port Angeles.

The ride from Sequim to Port Angeles is relatively undramatic. It is a wide, fast and indifferent road from any other get-there-fast highway. Luckily, the destinations are worth the few minutes of boredom.

The Olympic National Park Visitor Center is located on a hill in Port Angeles. Just follow the many signs. The visitor center offers the typical gift shop, but also ha a very nice exhibit area about the park. This is valuable infomratio nthat keeps you informed as to the geological and climatic uniqueness that is visible from the road.

Turning right from the visitor center is a park entrance and Heart O’ the Hills campground. This is one of the larger campgrounds in the Olympic National Park. We find ample available sites. We stake our claim and set up camp.

The damp and socked in skies clear as we finish setting up camp. After a brief run into Port Angeles for dinner, we decide to forgo our evening planes and head up Hurricane Ridge.

Sun sets over the Olympic Mountains viewed from Hurricane Ridge

Hurricane Ridge Road climbs quickly. It rises up from sea level in Port Angeles to approximately 5,200 feet at the top. The road itself is worth the trip. Even on the cloudiest of days it twists and turns with a rockwall to the right. On the opposite side of the road is a small shoulder and steep drop off. There isn’t much room for error. An abundant wildlife population and park rangers eager to snag speeders means that motorcyclists should be mindful of the posted speed limit. That is completly alright as the views deserve every bit of attention that the road affords.

After passing through a couple tunnels and leaning through countless turns, we arrive at the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center.

The area is aptly named for unpredicable weather that rolls over the Olympic National Park. With clear skies, Hurricane Ridge Road and the views from it are suberb.

The view from the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center

We arrived to the top as the sun hung low in the sky. The visitor center was closed, but a Kingston-area school teacher was setting up some sort of contraption. Being the curious person that I am, I enquire for more informatin. The contraption is actually a project that he built with his students. It is a very high power telescope that is self-contained for transport. Throughout the summer he holds stargazing sessions from the top of Hirricane Ridge. The surrounding mountains block any light pollution and on clear nights (on which the program only runs) the stars move quickly, but clearly past its lens.

It was total happenstance that we stumbled upon this program. It doesn’t have to be a chance encounter for you. Plan to arrive just prior to dusk to take in the mountain views. Then after the sun sets you can take in the astronomical views.

We ride very slowly back down the mountain to our camp site at Heart O’ the Hills. After failing to get our damp wood to catch fire, we retire to teh warmth of our sleeping bags. At least we’ll have wood to burn to cook breakfast. As long as we can get it lit.

As peninsulas go, there are three options for day trips (west side, north side and east side.).  This trip is being split up into separate articles by day. This allows you to pick and choose which parts best fit with your schedule and what you’d like to see. Time didn’t allow us to make the western Pacific Ocean portion of the Olympic Peninsula. Stay tuned for the next article on the section of our trip through lavendar farms and Port Townsend.

Leaving from Tacoma, our motorcycle takes us across the Tacoma Narrows Bridge northward to Bremerton along Washington State Route (SR) 16. We ride the V-Strom 650 through Bremerton to check out the Puget Sound and harbored Navy aircraft carriers. The large ships dwarf nearby buildings as they wait for orders.

The Dalby Water Wheel near Union, WA is a great place to stop and stretch the legs while getting the camera out.

From Bremerton, we head south of Hwy 106 along the southern finger of the Hood Canal. This scenic route winds through communities of vacation homes along their protected seaway. The area hangs in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains. Ominous clouds may look dubious in the near distance. Places like Sunset Beach, Shady Beach and the small town of Union, Washington are mostly sunny places to enjoy summer day. We find a small wooden waterwheel near Union. The Dalby Waterwheel is the most photographed spot in Mason County. At least according to the proprietor of the wine tasting room just up the street. The Dalby Waterwheel was originally built in 1922 and sat about 200 feet up the Dalby River. It was moved to its current location in 2006.

Firmly planted on the V-Strom, Monica and I travel a short distance further on Hwy 106  until it intersects with famous US Highway 101. Just a few miles after turning north we pass through the town of Hoodsport. This cozy, yet busy little sea town is home to Hoodsport Winery. This is a good place to pick up a bottle of local wine to enjoy at the end of the day. The line of wine tasters stretched into the small parking lot right off the road. We decide to leave the line in the mirrors and keep on keepin’ on.

Our original plan was to leave Hoodsport and head up Hwy 119 toward the Staircase area of the Olympic National Park. A split-second decision shifts our focus to Hamma Hamma — about 15 miles north on Hwy 101. Just past the town of Eldon, National Park (NP) 25 starts as a twisty paved road that climbs quickly away from the Hood Canal coastline. Shortly after the Hamm Hamma campground, the road comes to a “T” intersection. We turn south (left) and follow the dirt road along the Hamma Hamma River. Yes, I just like to say that name, Hamma Hamma.

Hamma Hamma Falls crashes just 75 feet through the narrow gorge carved through the mountainside.

The dirt road puts a smile across my face from left to right ear lobe. It rapidly climbs high up the mountain. Sharp tree-filled cliffs remind me to pick solid lines with delayed turns to maximize vision of on-coming vehicles. Of which, we never find. We do eventually find what we’re looking for, waterfalls. The Hamma Hamma Falls are somewhat hidden. The photogenic falls crash 75 feet in a gorge below a cement bridge. NP 25 continues on, but our goal is to reach Sequim early enough to pitch our new tent for the first time in the daylight.

Hwy 101 fits neatly between the green hillside and the greenish blue of the Hood Canal. The sediment of the many snow and glacier fed rivers drain into the canal and give it an interesting hue.

Hwy 101 leaves the salty water just north of Brinnon. The scenery changes to grazing farmland with hills to the west. The sun hangs low over the mountain and my mind is increasingly concerned about setting up camp.

Before long we enter Sequim. We ride west through town in search of Kitchen Dick Road. Though a horrible name for a road, it leads to a very unique place. A more than five-mile sand bar stretches out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca called the Dungeness Spit. This growing geomorphic formation is the largest spit in the United States.

Our goal was to set up camp at the Dungeness Recreation area campground. This being a busy holiday weekend means that the popular campground is full for the night. Plan B was to head to a nearby primitive campground with hope that the family and minivan crowd would rather the conveniences of nicer facilities.

The dual personality of the Suzuki V-Strom gets put to use. Heading south from the Dungeness Spit, we cross over Hwy 101 onto Deer Park Road. The paved road undulates up and down the gentle roll of the foothills overlooking farmland. The paved road gives way to the dirt of  Fire Road (FR) 2870. This is the second dirt road of the day. It gives me a smile in my growing worry about finding a place to pitch a tent. We turn onto FR 2880 and head toward the Dungeness Forks campground.

My plan to avoid the minivan crowd works. It also works for everyone in Jeeps, Land Cruisers and Westfalia vans as well. The camp sites are all occupied. Lucky for us, a kind couple looked up from their camp fire and saw us scouting unofficial spots that would make due for the night. They see the compactness of our motorcycle and suggest that we take a corner of their site.

Kind folks let us take a corner of their campsite at Dungeness Forks Campground.

We pitch our tent in minutes and turn our attention to cooking hot dogs over the already burning fire. All is good. I wish I could remember the kind people’s names. They saved us from a headache. Don’t wait as long as we did to occupy the no reservation camp sites of the Olympic National Park.

After dinner we cozy up in our sleeping bags and get some much needed sleep. Tomorrow we’ll see the small towns along the Strait of Juan de Fuca and more of the Olympic National Park.

As peninsulas go, there are three options for day trips (west side, north side and east side.).  This trip is being split up into separate articles by day. This allows you to pick and choose which parts best fit with your schedule and what you’d like to see. Time didn’t allow us to make the western Pacific Ocean portion of the Olympic Peninsula. Stay tuned for the next article on the northern section of our trip.